Sunday, April 5, 2009

Butterick 4691

It's done. I wore it today and despite sewer errors, I'm pretty satisfied with it. There were no reviews on Pattern Review for this pattern and I'm not sure why. I loved the collar and still do. I think it's the perfect spring suit and while the collar makes it a bit too distinct to make several times, I'm pretty sure, I'm going to make it again as a pant suit.

If you've read this blog for a while, you know that like most sewists, I can no longer make patterns directly from the envelope. The first alteration I made was a full bust adjustment. I'd never made one in a princess seamed garment before so this was a first. After making the adjustment all the way across the bust, the inside of the jacket drooped, so I pinched out almost all that I'd put in. The adjustment on the jacket front looks like two "vees" kissing. The instructions didn't mention doing anything to the back.

I spent a couple of days trying to figure out the next adjustment. There was a problem with wrinkling across the shoulders and the back was a mess. I tried to pinch them out thinking it may have been a slopiing shoulder problem. That cleaned up the front but didn't do anything for the back. The armholes in the back were huge. Gaposis does not begin to describe it. I kept trying to figure out how the round back adjustment would work and just couldn't see it in my mind. Finally, I decided it's just muslin. And I needed this suit. There are no words to describe the joy I felt when I made that adjustment and the back fell into place. I was so excited. It still didn't fit perfectly, but I slipped in a pair of shoulder pads and it looked good. This shows the gaposis, it doesn't look quite so bad because I'm reaching across myself to take the picture:

I made a quick muslin of the skirt and raised the hip a total of 2 1/4". Made a note to add 4 inches in length and I was ready to start.

My choice of fabric could have been better. I was originally looking for a piece of crepe, but since I was still wasn't full of self-confidence, I didn't want to invest a fortune. It's almost like a handkerchief linen, but it's polyester. I threw it into the machine and that beefed it up some. I decided to flat line it with some batiste I had on hand. It worked, but it slowed me down considerably, as I had to baste both layers together. I really like the weight of the fabric with the batise and the lining. I also took Anne R's (Artisan's Square) advice and basted the entire jacket together before I sewed it. This took a lot of time, too, but there was no ripping with the seam rippper due to mis-sewn seams.

The collar was relatively easy. But my duck billed scissors got a workout. I considered just doing a rolled hem on the serger, but I was so enoying the process, that I decided to do the hem the long way. Maybe next time.

Due to computer problems and lack of time, I didn't get the blouse made. I bought a black and white hat and wore a black camisole. The suit was quite comfortable to wear and I didn't get hot, which is always a bonus. I had one mishap. I took a "vee" shaped cut out of the skirt with the serger. It wasn't as disasterous as it could have been since it was near the hem. I made the skirt a little shorter and it was fine. This was taken after church and brunch, so please excuse the wrinkles.

Looking at the back now, I still see some areas that can be improved the next time. The twisting in the sleeve may be due to the lining, but I didn't feel any pulling when I had it on. But this is so much better than the first muslin. The best thing about this suit is that it gives me the confidence that I can do the needed alterations. I am so happy!!

All in all, it was a fun project and once again, it was fun in the sewing room. I don't know when I'll get back except to clean it, though. I've got to find a dishwasher this week, do some much needed housework and get out into the yard. We removed bushes last year and lost a tree in the ice storm this winter, so there's a lot to do. Times like this make townhouse or condo living look good.



Beverly said...

Looks like the perfect "church lady" suit. You're much more critical than me.

Towanda said...

I like your suit. I think that it turned out pretty well.

Sheila said...

You did a Fantastic job and love the hat. Looking forward to the Pant Suit.

I've been looking for duck billed scissors, where did you get yours.

Actually I stopped at JoAnns and inquired, but of course, they were clueless about duck billed scissors.

Susan said...

Such the perfect suit! No wonder you are happy with it.

cici said...

It turned out great. The hat really set it off. Happy Easter!

Two Cables and a Frapp said...

Well, this is a very nice suit. The hat does top it of !!!

The Gingerbread House said...

You and the Suit are looking pretty snazy to me, all I can say is "You Go Girl" :o)...Ginny