It's done. I wore it today and despite sewer errors, I'm pretty satisfied with it. There were no reviews on Pattern Review for this pattern and I'm not sure why. I loved the collar and still do. I think it's the perfect spring suit and while the collar makes it a bit too distinct to make several times, I'm pretty sure, I'm going to make it again as a pant suit.
If you've read this blog for a while, you know that like most sewists, I can no longer make patterns directly from the envelope. The first alteration I made was a full bust adjustment. I'd never made one in a princess seamed garment before so this was a first. After making the adjustment all the way across the bust, the inside of the jacket drooped, so I pinched out almost all that I'd put in. The adjustment on the jacket front looks like two "vees" kissing. The instructions didn't mention doing anything to the back.
I spent a couple of days trying to figure out the next adjustment. There was a problem with wrinkling across the shoulders and the back was a mess. I tried to pinch them out thinking it may have been a slopiing shoulder problem. That cleaned up the front but didn't do anything for the back. The armholes in the back were huge. Gaposis does not begin to describe it. I kept trying to figure out how the round back adjustment would work and just couldn't see it in my mind. Finally, I decided it's just muslin. And I needed this suit. There are no words to describe the joy I felt when I made that adjustment and the back fell into place. I was so excited. It still didn't fit perfectly, but I slipped in a pair of shoulder pads and it looked good. This shows the gaposis, it doesn't look quite so bad because I'm reaching across myself to take the picture:
I made a quick muslin of the skirt and raised the hip a total of 2 1/4". Made a note to add 4 inches in length and I was ready to start.
My choice of fabric could have been better. I was originally looking for a piece of crepe, but since I was still wasn't full of self-confidence, I didn't want to invest a fortune. It's almost like a handkerchief linen, but it's polyester. I threw it into the machine and that beefed it up some. I decided to flat line it with some batiste I had on hand. It worked, but it slowed me down considerably, as I had to baste both layers together. I really like the weight of the fabric with the batise and the lining. I also took Anne R's (Artisan's Square) advice and basted the entire jacket together before I sewed it. This took a lot of time, too, but there was no ripping with the seam rippper due to mis-sewn seams.
The collar was relatively easy. But my duck billed scissors got a workout. I considered just doing a rolled hem on the serger, but I was so enoying the process, that I decided to do the hem the long way. Maybe next time.
Due to computer problems and lack of time, I didn't get the blouse made. I bought a black and white hat and wore a black camisole. The suit was quite comfortable to wear and I didn't get hot, which is always a bonus. I had one mishap. I took a "vee" shaped cut out of the skirt with the serger. It wasn't as disasterous as it could have been since it was near the hem. I made the skirt a little shorter and it was fine. This was taken after church and brunch, so please excuse the wrinkles.
Looking at the back now, I still see some areas that can be improved the next time. The twisting in the sleeve may be due to the lining, but I didn't feel any pulling when I had it on. But this is so much better than the first muslin. The best thing about this suit is that it gives me the confidence that I can do the needed alterations. I am so happy!!
All in all, it was a fun project and once again, it was fun in the sewing room. I don't know when I'll get back except to clean it, though. I've got to find a dishwasher this week, do some much needed housework and get out into the yard. We removed bushes last year and lost a tree in the ice storm this winter, so there's a lot to do. Times like this make townhouse or condo living look good.